After the last experiment with the 1/600 O8 figures, I had a few questions about the basing method.
So I thought I would share that here with you all.
Requirements for basing at this teeny weeny scale are a little different to what I am used to with my 15mm miniatures. These requirements are :
- Models should sit as close as possible to the underlying board.
- The basing material should be sculptable, to create small folds in the ground, dead ground, and distinct track marks.
- The basing material should act as a glue to hold the models in place, although holding strength is not a huge issue, as the models are incredibly light anyway.
- The basing material should offer some texture - enough for a light dry brushing, but not so much that it overwhelms the teeny weeny figures.
- A little bit of fine scale flock works well - just a dab here and there is OK.
|Here is a close up of the flock, so you know which one I am talking about. I dont use static grass at all on the 2mm bases, it looks way too big.|
This stuff however blends in very well, and looks like it fits the scale.
|A close up of the hedging material - showing off my poor photography skills. You may notice from the shot that this stuff does clump together well, making it easy to work with at this scale.|
Now for the actual basing once this gloop has been made -
I have settled on the following steps :
- Superglue the unpainted model to the MDF board (tiny dab of glue only)
- Let the glue dry. Nothing worse than superglue to ruin a good brush.
- Now, lay out the gloop in a circle around the model. Use the brush to push the gloop towards the base of the model, gently filling up any gaps.
- Overlap the gloop over the bases of the models (infantry / artillery models, etc), just enough to hide the hard and abrupt edges of the model base. No need to cover the whole base of the model - just hide the edges by glooping over it. Hope that makes sense, bit hard to describe.
- Use a toothpick now to build up some interesting mounds of dirt on the base, put in tyre tracks, etc.
- Put the lid back on the gloop ASAP. If required, add a bit of water before closing to keep the gloop moist till the next use.
- Let it dry. Within an hour or 2, the gloop will have dried hard and act as the main structural part of the base.
- Now, paint the whole of the model in a brown shade similar to the colour of the gloop. In my case, German camo brown (Vallejo) is a good match.
- Let it dry again, and then hit the whole base with a stain / wash. Few options here - I prefer using Vallejo brown glaze, watered down about 1:1. Gets into all the nooks and crannies. Vallejo transparent woodgrain also gives a cool effect. Whatever works for you.
- Next, let it dry again. Heavy drybrush in a light shade - sand yellow or ochre, whatever suits. Dont go overboard on the drybrushing, or it may contrast too much and overwhelm the actual figures.
- Next, add a few dabs of lighter green ... light drybrush a hint of greenery here and there.
- Next, glue on a few dabs of shrubbery.
- Let it all dry, and your figures are now ready to paint.
|Finished Product 1 - Polish infantry. The main trick is to cover the edges of the model base to make it sit flush with the terrain. Really does trick the eye into believing it is real.|
|Finished product 2 - a little bit of shrubbery goes a long way.|